DRILLING TOOLS

start with a transfer punch to locate the holes

then use a center punch to indent the workpiece

then use a center drill (yes, they break!) to drill out a pilot hole

then use a machine screw drill (the one on the top) for less flex. otherwise, go with a jobber bit. notice the difference in length.

these are all 1/2" dia.

it's a good idea when working with the smaller mini mill and mini lathes to buy a set of machine screw drills as it helps with your limited z-axis travel. they're also stiffer and less prone to "walking".

when tapping, use a tap block. this one was made in 15 minutes or so.

this makes sure your holes are perpendicular to the workpiece!

you can download and print a free drawing of this tap block. it takes only 15 minutes to make.

there was considerable run-out of the stock chuck so a better quality R8-JT33 arbor and drill chuck should solve that problem.

there is one drawback to the rohm chuck. the inside depth is roughly 1/2" less than the stock chuck therefore decreasing the amount a bit can be chucked. there is also no through hole in the chuck, so removing the arbor will require using wedges to wedge the two apart.

here's a great forum thread on how to remove the chuck from the arbor. to recap, you can use wedges that come from both sides of the arbor. squeeze them together and voila!

not sure this is a good idea, but i may drill a through hole in the chuck to increase bit depth...

this was a piece of plywood being rabbetted with a 1/2" 4 flute endmill with a 1/2"+ depth of cut.

the drill chuck pulled itself out of the jt33/58 arbor.

this is a 5.5" L x 1.5" dia drill rod being reamed with a 1/2" reamer, the workpiece is not chucked - note the total bed length! still quite a challenge. the bit could be shortened...