(279,’2007-03-20 15:16:20′,’david’,’2007-03-20 15:16:20′,’david’,’Making A Fixture Plate For Flexible And Repeatable Workpiece And Vise Holding’,”,’We\’ve been wanting to make a fixture plate for a long time now. For those acquainted with the smallish work envelope of the X2 mini-mill, you may have had the need to reposition the vise and/or workpiece to be able to machine it properly. Truing the vise and/or workpiece is quite time consuming and can be very frustrating since every time you reposition, your origin needs to be relocated.

The beauty of a fixture plate is that it allows for flexible positioning and makes for easy repeatability to the thou or better (if care is taken in its positioning methodology and provided that the plate is made to high accuracy).

In the midst of making the mounting plates for the 8×12/14 CNC conversion of the mini-lathe, we found ourselves using the original fixture block we made for fun. It was, however, lacking in support size and the breadth of mounting holes and since we knew the mounting plates would clearly exceed the work envelope of the mini-mill, we would need a way to quickly reposition with repeatable accuracy.

Off we went to design and make a new fixture plate using the mini-mill itself.

We started with a scrap of 4″ wide 3/8″ thick 6061-T6 aluminum plate. We had some of of the cast (not extruded) aluminum finished plate of 1/2″ thick (which is ideal) but were planning on using that piece for the home-brewed mini-mill project instead.

The whole concept of the fixture plate is to be able to accurately position it and secure it to the table itself and for the the plate to have threaded holes spaced accurately and equally apart from each other so that positioning doesn\’t require the use of a calculator. Finally, the plate should have a fast way to get indexed to origin of the bolt hole pattern and should have some means of indexing to the part (this is different from securing the part to the plate).

The first step was to roughly determine the length of travel we would get and provide a bit of a buffer zone. The tape measure roughly indicated that we would have a little under 8″ of X travel:

Next we need to find some ground dowel pins. We didn\’t have them on hand, but some 1/4″ would have been perfect. You can find these ground to just over 1/4″ by 0.0002″ for a tight fit. We took some drill rod type material (came from the cheap indicator base) of just under 0.250″ and chamfered the ends using the mini-lathe to get something like this:

We then marked the hole locations using with a Sharpie to space things out. We ended up with 7.500″ spacing between the two (since we\’re using the mini-mill to drill into itself – a self-operating operating), it had to be within its travel limits. Thus, the 7.500″ was dicated for us.

Using a drill bit slightly undersized from the dowel pin OD, we began drilling into the cast iron table:

We then tested the fit with the dowel pins inserted:

We then butted the plate (the sides weren\’t milled so the extruded edges were used – not as accurate as using a milled side that was guaranteed linear), clamped it down to the table using step clamps and drilled two corresponding through holes in the aluminum plate at the same 7.500″ interval:

Next, we inserted the pins into the plate using the arbor press. This has to be a tight fit!

Now we test fit the plate with its inserted dowel pins into the table holes – perfect, tight fit!

Now\’s the time for CNC drilling and reaming. We determined a origin on the plate that\’s 0.500″ x 0.500″ from the dowel pin. From this point, through holes for a 1/4″x20tpi tap (#7 drill bit) were drilled in three rows of 9 holes each spaced 1″ apart.

We then drilled an reamed 0.250″ holes also spaced 1″ apart but that are spaced 0.500″ x 0.500″ of two rows of 8 holes each in between the threaded holes. These are for dowel pins to be inserted for positioning a part when accuracy is required.

Last but not least is the origin. We simply used a 60 degree center drill so that we can insert a 60 degree pointed bit in for locating. Ideally a cut out should be used of a set dimension so that an edge finder can be used to locate it within 0.0002″ or whatever the accuracy of the edge finder is.

Now that the holes are completed, it\’s time to make some mounting holes so that the plate can be secured to the table using t-slot nuts. It\’s important that the nuts are just under flush from the top of the fixture plate so that there\’s no interference. This would have been much easier to accomplish with a thicker plate of at least 1/2″ thickness. With 3/8″, the threaded rod studs not only had to be very short, but only a few threads could be mated with the nut. The other alternative would be to find some thin-headed flanged bolts, but we wanted to finish this up so that we could get working on the part-making.. Here\’s a picture of the mounting setup:

Note that the hole recesses are large. That\’s so that a socket could fit into them to tighten down the nut.

The final step was to lightly sand down the top of the plate to remove any burrs and nicks. All of the holes are chamfered, btw. We used some WD-40 and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to lightly make some circular passes on them. It\’s important to use something heavy and flat (not your hands/fingers) to apply equal pressure in a wide-spread contact patch:

After a few hours of work (well, it might have been half a day or so), we arrived at the final plate:

Now we can begin working with vise positioning jigs for rapid positioning… As for fixturing workpieces, we\’ll show you some examples of this as we make the X-axis motor bracket for the 8×12/14 CNC mini-lathe conversion.’,’

We’ve been wanting to make a fixture plate for a long time now. For those acquainted with the smallish work envelope of the X2 mini-mill, you may have had the need to reposition the vise and/or workpiece to be able to machine it properly. Truing the vise and/or workpiece is quite time consuming and can be very frustrating since every time you reposition, your origin needs to be relocated.

The beauty of a fixture plate is that it allows for flexible positioning and makes for easy repeatability to the thou or better (if care is taken in its positioning methodology and provided that the plate is made to high accuracy).

In the midst of making the mounting plates for the 8×12/14 CNC conversion of the mini-lathe, we found ourselves using the original fixture block we made for fun. It was, however, lacking in support size and the breadth of mounting holes and since we knew the mounting plates would clearly exceed the work envelope of the mini-mill, we would need a way to quickly reposition with repeatable accuracy.

Off we went to design and make a new fixture plate using the mini-mill itself.

We started with a scrap of 4” wide 3/8” thick 6061-T6 aluminum plate. We had some of of the cast (not extruded) aluminum finished plate of 1/2” thick (which is ideal) but were planning on using that piece for the home-brewed mini-mill project instead.

The whole concept of the fixture plate is to be able to accurately position it and secure it to the table itself and for the the plate to have threaded holes spaced accurately and equally apart from each other so that positioning doesn’t require the use of a calculator. Finally, the plate should have a fast way to get indexed to origin of the bolt hole pattern and should have some means of indexing to the part (this is different from securing the part to the plate).

The first step was to roughly determine the length of travel we would get and provide a bit of a buffer zone. The tape measure roughly indicated that we would have a little under 8” of X travel:

Next we need to find some ground dowel pins. We didn’t have them on hand, but some 1/4” would have been perfect. You can find these ground to just over 1/4” by 0.0002” for a tight fit. We took some drill rod type material (came from the cheap indicator base) of just under 0.250” and chamfered the ends using the mini-lathe to get something like this:

We then marked the hole locations using with a Sharpie to space things out. We ended up with 7.500” spacing between the two (since we’re using the mini-mill to drill into itself – a self-operating operating), it had to be within its travel limits. Thus, the 7.500” was dicated for us.

Using a drill bit slightly undersized from the dowel pin OD, we began drilling into the cast iron table:

We then tested the fit with the dowel pins inserted:

We then butted the plate (the sides weren’t milled so the extruded edges were used – not as accurate as using a milled side that was guaranteed linear), clamped it down to the table using step clamps and drilled two corresponding through holes in the aluminum plate at the same 7.500” interval:

Next, we inserted the pins into the plate using the arbor press. This has to be a tight fit!

Now we test fit the plate with its inserted dowel pins into the table holes – perfect, tight fit!

Now’s the time for CNC drilling and reaming. We determined a origin on the plate that’s 0.500” x 0.500” from the dowel pin. From this point, through holes for a 1/4“x20tpi tap (#7 drill bit) were drilled in three rows of 9 holes each spaced 1” apart.

We then drilled an reamed 0.250” holes also spaced 1” apart but that are spaced 0.500” x 0.500” of two rows of 8 holes each in between the threaded holes. These are for dowel pins to be inserted for positioning a part when accuracy is required.

Last but not least is the origin. We simply used a 60 degree center drill so that we can insert a 60 degree pointed bit in for locating. Ideally a cut out should be used of a set dimension so that an edge finder can be used to locate it within 0.0002” or whatever the accuracy of the edge finder is.

Now that the holes are completed, it’s time to make some mounting holes so that the plate can be secured to the table using t-slot nuts. It’s important that the nuts are just under flush from the top of the fixture plate so that there’s no interference. This would have been much easier to accomplish with a thicker plate of at least 1/2” thickness. With 3/8”, the threaded rod studs not only had to be very short, but only a few threads could be mated with the nut. The other alternative would be to find some thin-headed flanged bolts, but we wanted to finish this up so that we could get working on the part-making.. Here’s a picture of the mounting setup:

Note that the hole recesses are large. That’s so that a socket could fit into them to tighten down the nut.

The final step was to lightly sand down the top of the plate to remove any burrs and nicks. All of the holes are chamfered, btw. We used some WD-40 and 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to lightly make some circular passes on them. It’s important to use something heavy and flat (not your hands/fingers) to apply equal pressure in a wide-spread contact patch:

After a few hours of work (well, it might have been half a day or so), we arrived at the final plate:

Now we can begin working with vise positioning jigs for rapid positioning… As for fixturing workpieces, we’ll show you some examples of this as we make the X-axis motor bracket for the 8×12/14 CNC mini-lathe conversion.

‘,’We\’ve been wanting to make a fixture plate for a long time now. For those acquainted with the smallish work envelope of the X2 mini-mill, you may have had the need to reposition the vise and/or workpiece to be able to machine it properly. Truing the vise and/or workpiece is quite time consuming and can be very frustrating since every time you reposition, your origin needs to be relocated.

The beauty of a fixture plate is that it allows for flexible positioning and makes for easy repeatability to the thou or better (if care is taken in its positioning methodology and provided that the plate is made to high accuracy).

In the midst of making the mounting plates for the 8×12/14 CNC conversion of the mini-lathe, we found ourselves using the original fixture block we made for fun. It was, however, lacking in support size and the breadth of mounting holes and since we knew the mounting plates would clearly exceed the work envelope of the mini-mill, we would need a way to quickly reposition with repeatable accuracy.

Off we went to design and make a new fixture plate using the mini-mill itself.

‘,’

We’ve been wanting to make a fixture plate for a long time now. For those acquainted with the smallish work envelope of the X2 mini-mill, you may have had the need to reposition the vise and/or workpiece to be able to machine it properly. Truing the vise and/or workpiece is quite time consuming and can be very frustrating since every time you reposition, your origin needs to be relocated.

The beauty of a fixture plate is that it allows for flexible positioning and makes for easy repeatability to the thou or better (if care is taken in its positioning methodology and provided that the plate is made to high accuracy).

In the midst of making the mounting plates for the 8×12/14 CNC conversion of the mini-lathe, we found ourselves using the original fixture block we made for fun. It was, however, lacking in support size and the breadth of mounting holes and since we knew the mounting plates would clearly exceed the work envelope of the mini-mill, we would need a way to quickly reposition with repeatable accuracy.

Off we went to design and make a new fixture plate using the mini-mill itself.

‘,”,’Sieg-X2-Mini-Mill’,’Tooling’,1,’Comment’,0,4,1,1,’article’,”,”,’making-a-fixture-plate-for-flexible-and-repeatable-workpiece-and-vise-holding’,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,’9fdabdacee09443564097c43d65c8d48′,’2007-03-20′);

(278,’2007-03-14 08:26:08′,’david’,’2007-03-14 08:35:38′,’david’,’CNC 8×12 Mini-Lathe Z-Axis Day 2 – It Works!’,”,’On Day 1 of this build we showed the basic layout of the Z-axis ballscrew location and turning of the ballscrew using ground HSS bits over carbide inserts. Day 2 actually took two days itself but will be combined into one.

Most of the time was spent using sneaker-net to transfer G programs from the laptop to the host rackmounted cnc controller (that is until we hooked up a crossover cable between the two machines so that the programs could be sent via NetBEUI and eliminate moving the compact flash card back and forth). There was also considerable time involved setting up the workpiece in the mill since using the cnc mini-mill had its work envelope limitations appear on a piece as large as the bed-end motor bracket – sized at just around 4″ wide and 8″ long. As you can see, the workpiece had to be remounted many times over to get certain cuts made. This in turn required re-generating toolpaths many times over – a very time consuming process overall.

First let’s talk a bit about the control setup. We’re still using our CNC mini-mill (converted X2 mini-mill) with the 1U server rackmount case only this time it was mounted in an actual server rack with an accompanying 18.1″ capacitive touch screen monitor from Allen Bradley. The capacitive touch means that it requires the use of your bare finger, elbow or other ungloved extremety to activate the screen’s response. Unfortunately, since it’s not a passive touch screen, the use of a stylus could not be used.

The previous picture you saw was a blue layout dye’d motor plate that had been partially cut and was prepped for bed hole marking.

We started with a piece of 1/2″ thick aluminum plate 4″ wide by roughly 12″ long. Since we knew that remounting and reindexing the part was crucial to this part being made, we brought back from life in one of the tool chests, the threaded block with equally spaced holes that we had created as a project a while back. Here’s a tip (we’ll show you this later): make or buy yourself a mounting plate with equally spaced threaded holes that accommodate step-block sized holes so that complex workpiece mounting can be accomplished. It’ll increase the speed in setups.

After laying out the general centerline of the workpiece with ENCO layout dye (use Dykem, it’s much better), we drilled the two 5/16″ holes so that it could be mounted to the block.

We missed a step! Here’s a picture of the protractor and ruler taped together at the end of the bed to give us a general layout guide for dimensioning of this motor plate to be machined:

After many hours of redrawing toolpaths and playing around with the design and remounting the workpiece, making finite adjustments here and there, we ended up with the motor bracket:

You’ll notice that there was an OOPS! made in the plate. We didn’t pay enough attention to the toolpath simulation which caused us to move the plate over in the X-axis a few times until the moutning holes interefered with the actual part holes. They were supposed to be equally spaced.. What happened was that given our lead-in/lead-out of the contour cut of the long angle, we didn’t retract the toolbit. We kept the tool down. This of course led to the cutter cutting the plate as it moved back for more depth cut passes. By the time we figured out we had made this mistake, it was too late. Either scrap the part and start over or use it as-is realizing that it wouldn’t look good in the end. It’s a prototype and we left it as-is.

After making the final counter-bored holes for the bearing block, rounding off the end of the motor plate (to make it look nice), it was mounted to the end of the lathe bed:

Now it was time to layout the ball nut flange to mount to the carriage or apron. Originally, the plan was to mount it to the underside of the carriage (which we may still end up doing), but we opted to keep things simple by mounting it to the side of the apron. As a result, the ball nut flange required nothing more than a plate with some mouting holes.

We start by drilling mounting holes in the plate. Here, you’ll see the versatility of using plates/blocks with these series of threaded holes as we’re using step clamps to hold down the workpiece while the block is held down in a screwless vise.

Again, we had to reposition the entire vise and re-zero (another tip here is to create a method of indexing the table so that the vise can be moved into position without having to always re-zero to allow for work envelope constraints. After we moved the vise back some, the ballnut flange was machined without having to reposition the workpiece. A few small counterbored holes, a hole for the 5/8″dia. ball nut thead, and a contour produced the flange.

(Contouring)

(Threading by hand)

(Completed)

(Look at the excellent finish!)

Finally, drilling and tapping corresponding holes on the side of the apron produced a fitted ballscrew/ball nut assembly that drives or can be driven resulting in a manual AND CNC lathe:

Here’s a video of the carriage being driven back and forth with a cordless drill chucked to the ballscrew shaft (click on the image to view the video):

We still need to mount the motor and then we’ll power it up and follow up in another post. ‘,’

On Day 1 of this build we showed the basic layout of the Z-axis ballscrew location and turning of the ballscrew using ground HSS bits over carbide inserts. Day 2 actually took two days itself but will be combined into one.

Most of the time was spent using sneaker-net to transfer G programs from the laptop to the host rackmounted cnc controller (that is until we hooked up a crossover cable between the two machines so that the programs could be sent via NetBEUI and eliminate moving the compact flash card back and forth). There was also considerable time involved setting up the workpiece in the mill since using the cnc mini-mill had its work envelope limitations appear on a piece as large as the bed-end motor bracket – sized at just around 4” wide and 8” long. As you can see, the workpiece had to be remounted many times over to get certain cuts made. This in turn required re-generating toolpaths many times over – a very time consuming process overall.

First let’s talk a bit about the control setup. We’re still using our CNC mini-mill (converted X2 mini-mill) with the 1U server rackmount case only this time it was mounted in an actual server rack with an accompanying 18.1” capacitive touch screen monitor from Allen Bradley. The capacitive touch means that it requires the use of your bare finger, elbow or other ungloved extremety to activate the screen’s response. Unfortunately, since it’s not a passive touch screen, the use of a stylus could not be used.

The previous picture you saw was a blue layout dye’d motor plate that had been partially cut and was prepped for bed hole marking.

We started with a piece of 1/2” thick aluminum plate 4” wide by roughly 12” long. Since we knew that remounting and reindexing the part was crucial to this part being made, we brought back from life in one of the tool chests, the threaded block with equally spaced holes that we had created as a project a while back. Here’s a tip (we’ll show you this later): make or buy yourself a mounting plate with equally spaced threaded holes that accommodate step-block sized holes so that complex workpiece mounting can be accomplished. It’ll increase the speed in setups.

After laying out the general centerline of the workpiece with ENCO layout dye (use Dykem, it’s much better), we drilled the two 5/16” holes so that it could be mounted to the block.

We missed a step! Here’s a picture of the protractor and ruler taped together at the end of the bed to give us a general layout guide for dimensioning of this motor plate to be machined:

After many hours of redrawing toolpaths and playing around with the design and remounting the workpiece, making finite adjustments here and there, we ended up with the motor bracket:

You’ll notice that there was an OOPS! made in the plate. We didn’t pay enough attention to the toolpath simulation which caused us to move the plate over in the X-axis a few times until the moutning holes interefered with the actual part holes. They were supposed to be equally spaced.. What happened was that given our lead-in/lead-out of the contour cut of the long angle, we didn’t retract the toolbit. We kept the tool down. This of course led to the cutter cutting the plate as it moved back for more depth cut passes. By the time we figured out we had made this mistake, it was too late. Either scrap the part and start over or use it as-is realizing that it wouldn’t look good in the end. It’s a prototype and we left it as-is.

After making the final counter-bored holes for the bearing block, rounding off the end of the motor plate (to make it look nice), it was mounted to the end of the lathe bed:

Now it was time to layout the ball nut flange to mount to the carriage or apron. Originally, the plan was to mount it to the underside of the carriage (which we may still end up doing), but we opted to keep things simple by mounting it to the side of the apron. As a result, the ball nut flange required nothing more than a plate with some mouting holes.

We start by drilling mounting holes in the plate. Here, you’ll see the versatility of using plates/blocks with these series of threaded holes as we’re using step clamps to hold down the workpiece while the block is held down in a screwless vise.

Again, we had to reposition the entire vise and re-zero (another tip here is to create a method of indexing the table so that the vise can be moved into position without having to always re-zero to allow for work envelope constraints. After we moved the vise back some, the ballnut flange was machined without having to reposition the workpiece. A few small counterbored holes, a hole for the 5/8“dia. ball nut thead, and a contour produced the flange.

(Contouring)

(Threading by hand)

(Completed)

(Look at the excellent finish!)

Finally, drilling and tapping corresponding holes on the side of the apron produced a fitted ballscrew/ball nut assembly that drives or can be driven resulting in a manual AND CNC lathe:

Here’s a video of the carriage being driven back and forth with a cordless drill chucked to the ballscrew shaft (click on the image to view the video):

We still need to mount the motor and then we’ll power it up and follow up in another post.

‘,’On Day 1 of this build we showed the basic layout of the Z-axis ballscrew location and turning of the ballscrew using ground HSS bits over carbide inserts. Day 2 actually took two days itself but will be combined into one.

Most of the time was spent using sneaker-net to transfer G programs from the laptop to the host rackmounted cnc controller (that is until we hooked up a crossover cable between the two machines so that the programs could be sent via NetBEUI and eliminate moving the compact flash card back and forth). There was also considerable time involved setting up the workpiece in the mill since using the cnc mini-mill had its work envelope limitations appear on a piece as large as the bed-end motor bracket – sized at just around 4″ wide and 8″ long. As you can see, the workpiece had to be remounted many times over to get certain cuts made. This in turn required re-generating toolpaths many times over – a very time consuming process overall.

‘,’

On Day 1 of this build we showed the basic layout of the Z-axis ballscrew location and turning of the ballscrew using ground HSS bits over carbide inserts. Day 2 actually took two days itself but will be combined into one.

Most of the time was spent using sneaker-net to transfer G programs from the laptop to the host rackmounted cnc controller (that is until we hooked up a crossover cable between the two machines so that the programs could be sent via NetBEUI and eliminate moving the compact flash card back and forth). There was also considerable time involved setting up the workpiece in the mill since using the cnc mini-mill had its work envelope limitations appear on a piece as large as the bed-end motor bracket – sized at just around 4” wide and 8” long. As you can see, the workpiece had to be remounted many times over to get certain cuts made. This in turn required re-generating toolpaths many times over – a very time consuming process overall.

‘,”,’8x128x14-Small-Lathe’,”,1,’Comment’,0,4,1,1,’article’,”,”,’cnc-8×12-mini-lathe-z-axis-day-2-it-works’,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,’c122295a3ed32e7445de34df8fcc61ff’,’2007-03-14′);

(277,’2007-03-10 23:03:49′,’david’,’2007-03-10 23:09:23′,’david’,’Installing The 8×12 Lathe Backsplash / Splash Guard’,”,’When ordering accessories such as the backsplash / splash guard for the 8×12 mini-lathe from Harbor Freight, you’ll need to be specific since there’s no SKU for that item.

Once you receive it along with your new lathe, you may notice that the lathe has neither any tapped holes for the splash guard nor does the splash guard have suitable mounting holes for the headstock end of it. But let’s first re-enact the joy and excitement of seeing your two new boxes brought to your car via forklift at your local freight distribution center (old picture):

This splash guard sat around unmounted until recently. It was just time to either throw it away or mount it. Mounting it would require drilling and tapping three holes on the lathe and drill two new holes in the splash guard.

The tailstock end is easy. Just line up the end of the guard somewhat flush to the end of the bed and mark it. We used 1/4″x20TPI here:

Next came the somewhat time-consuming part. We had to make sure the guard was closely parallel to the lathe bed so with the back cover of the electric switch box removed, we used some vise grips to hold the guard to the box sheet metal. After rough positioning and marking its location (as noted by the silver colored Sharpie permanent marker), we drilled two 5/16″ dia. holes roughly 2″ apart from each other about 2″ from the front edge of the splash guard.

Then, we repositioned the splash guard back on and located the two holes again. Finally we drilled and tapped the two corresponding 1/4″x28 TPI holes. We’re using finder pitched threads since we’re threading into sheet metal this time.

Note that the existing two slotted holes were not used since they protrude into the cast iron head of the headstock. We just kept it simple and used the sheet metal box that houses the electrical wiring.

After 15 minutes or so, the splash guard was finally mounted!

‘,’

When ordering accessories such as the backsplash / splash guard for the 8×12 mini-lathe from Harbor Freight, you’ll need to be specific since there’s no SKU for that item.

Once you receive it along with your new lathe, you may notice that the lathe has neither any tapped holes for the splash guard nor does the splash guard have suitable mounting holes for the headstock end of it. But let’s first re-enact the joy and excitement of seeing your two new boxes brought to your car via forklift at your local freight distribution center (old picture):

This splash guard sat around unmounted until recently. It was just time to either throw it away or mount it. Mounting it would require drilling and tapping three holes on the lathe and drill two new holes in the splash guard.

The tailstock end is easy. Just line up the end of the guard somewhat flush to the end of the bed and mark it. We used 1/4“x20TPI here:

Next came the somewhat time-consuming part. We had to make sure the guard was closely parallel to the lathe bed so with the back cover of the electric switch box removed, we used some vise grips to hold the guard to the box sheet metal. After rough positioning and marking its location (as noted by the silver colored Sharpie permanent marker), we drilled two 5/16” dia. holes roughly 2” apart from each other about 2” from the front edge of the splash guard.

Then, we repositioned the splash guard back on and located the two holes again. Finally we drilled and tapped the two corresponding 1/4“x28 TPI holes. We’re using finder pitched threads since we’re threading into sheet metal this time.

Note that the existing two slotted holes were not used since they protrude into the cast iron head of the headstock. We just kept it simple and used the sheet metal box that houses the electrical wiring.

After 15 minutes or so, the splash guard was finally mounted!

‘,’When ordering accessories such as the backsplash / splash guard for the 8×12 mini-lathe from Harbor Freight, you’ll need to be specific since there’s no SKU for that item.

Once you receive it along with your new lathe, you may notice that the lathe has neither any tapped holes for the splash guard nor does the splash guard have suitable mounting holes for the headstock end of it. But let’s enjoy the excitement of seeing your two new boxes brought to your car via forklift at your local freight distribution center (old picture):

‘,’

When ordering accessories such as the backsplash / splash guard for the 8×12 mini-lathe from Harbor Freight, you’ll need to be specific since there’s no SKU for that item.

Once you receive it along with your new lathe, you may notice that the lathe has neither any tapped holes for the splash guard nor does the splash guard have suitable mounting holes for the headstock end of it. But let’s enjoy the excitement of seeing your two new boxes brought to your car via forklift at your local freight distribution center (old picture):

‘,”,’8x128x14-Small-Lathe’,”,1,’Comment’,0,4,1,1,’article’,”,”,’installing-the-8×12-lathe-backsplash’,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,”,’9cb495a41f5bb4e63069c36ddb4d3f68′,’2007-03-10′);